Paul Osicka Wines

Okay, you might need a packed lunch for this one but do not be diverted from your task. You are on the hunt for some of Australia's best red wines. The Osickas are a quiet bunch, happy to let their wines do the talking. There is no website, the cellar door is open only by appointment but, to those in the know, that's all for the better. Paul and Rosalie Osicka arrived in Australia in 1951, refugees from war-torn Czechoslovakia with skills in winemaking. They bought land near Graytown, used cuttings from the nearby Segafredo Vineyard and got started. Paul Jr naturally understood the red grapes of his region, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, and produced wine rich in complexity but never overstated. Overstatement is definitely not an Osicka trait. Paul Jr's son, Simon, a former group red winemaker for Constellation Wines / Hardys, is now in charge. Frans of Osicka wines will always be torn between shiraz - Heathcote's signature grape - and cabernet sauvignon - Heathcote's signature grape in waiting. Which is better in Osicka hands? You'll have to decide for yourself.

Jeni Port

Contributor, Gourmet Traveller WINE